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Good Soil Beneath:
Lay the sods in rows with the joints staggered like joints between bricks in a wall. If the sods have been well cut and carefully handled little or no packing of soil beneath them •will be needed, but should they have lost some of their soil and be thinner in spots than the required thickness, pack sufficient soil beneath them as the work proceeds to bring them perfectly level. Butt the sods closely together and set them firmly in position by giving each several blows with the back of the spade. When several square yards have been laid give them an additional firming by beating them with a wooden tamper.When the time comes for the major fixing, mow at a height of one inch. Eliminate obvious low spots by lifting a few turfs, packing good soil beneath and replacing them. Then, with an ordinary iron rake (or better still a Cavex rake), scarify the soil surface, removing as much dead grass, leaves and other debris as possible. If the soil is compacted, aerify it using a spiked roller, a special hollow-tined aerifying fork or a regular garden fork jabbed in to make holes a few inches apart.
Dig a hole large enough to ensure that there is space for all the roots to lie naturally, with room at the top for a covering of I or 2in of soil over the uppermost roots. Another way to determine depth is to look for the dark soil mark on the stem or stems, indicating where the soil came to in the nursery bed, and to replant so that this is just beneath the surface. With bare-rooted plants it is also necessary to work soil around and between the roots and to make this easy it often pays to prepare in advance a planting mixture composed of well-broken soil mixed with about a third its bulk of peat and containing a light sprinkling of bonemeal.
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